Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Rundschau sleeve drafting

Today I tried drafting the Rundschau sleeves for the coat draft.
It is a very straight sleeve, and when drafted out according to the instructions, very wide. The hem proportion in the draft is quite small especially in comparison to the width at and above the elbow.

In the instructions they calculate 1/4 of the Ad in two different points. Point C and F in the picture on the right.
I took that to be the armhole width from the body pattern but it wasn't specific as to whether that meant just the basic armhole width proportion of 1/8 chest plus 3.5 cm, or 1/8 chest plus 3.5, plus 2cm more, which is what you use in the drafting of the body.

I decided to take it as just the proportion (which I suspect is wrong) and when I pinned it into the jacket it did look too long.
The photo on the left (above) is the first try at it - very wide -and the photo above in the middle is a modification of the calculation for the width.
So, in the first I used 1/2 armscye measurement plus 1 cm and in the second 1/2 armscye minus .5 cm. The wider sleeve ended up having 6 cm of ease in it- as compared to the armhole- which I felt is way too much (that can depend on the fabric, style, and making up methods) The narrower version had a more reasonable 3 cm. Maybe using 1/2 armscye would be best.
Of course it is impossible to shape a muslin sleeve, so here it is pinned into the jacket as is.
I'd prefer a narrower elbow, and an altogether shaplier sleeve, but to take out another cm at the front at the elbow level might be a problem. The forearm seam here is displaced towards the undersleeve (as in most modern sleeves) which limits the shaping you can put into the pattern unless you are able to work the fabric with the iron.

The other option is to increase the sleeve hem circumference at the front, which I think would improve the shape in general- don't you think it is a bit too straight and abrupt there?

You can see that the back sleeve seam is too long, so I think the calculation of 1/8 chest + 3.5 + 2 is better and that decreases the back seam length by .75cm by dropping point C circled above.
That also raises point F slightly if the calculation is consistent.

I guess that means another try.


  1. I just found your blog recently and am enjoying it/finding it very useful, as I'm trying to teach myself tailoring and historic men's clothing. I'm in awe of your skills and talent!

    I have a question about your statement "The forearm seam here is displaced towards the undersleeve (as in most modern sleeves)" - I just drafted a sleeve based on R.I. Davis's Men's Garments: 1830-1900 for a regency coat. I was surprised on the mockup how far forward the forearm seam was, and was considering moving the seam further under the arm. Should the seam be toward the front to be correct for the early 19th century? Do you know when the seam moved further under the arm?

    I've never really thought about how seam placement affects the amount of shape you can give a garment, that's really interesting. (And kind of frustrasting to have that limitation!)

    Thanks for your help, and looking forward to more posts! :)

  2. Hi, Thanks for the positive feedback!
    Period sleeves are cut equally in that the width of the top and the underside are equal in size from at least the hem to the elbow. The seam is right at the front and since the sleeves are much more shapely, that seam placement is required to make that shape.

    Modern jacket sleeves got much straighter in the 20th century with the top sleeve seam moving to the underside. I'm not sure of the exact date, but by mid century it was usual, although half and half sleeves were still around. I guess it had something to do with both style changes and more economical lays on the fabric.(perhaps driven by manufacturing)

    Seams and darts are the basis for providing shape.
    If you can manipulate the fabric with the iron you can create shaping without necessarily needing a seam or dart, but you also would need wool fabric that is heavy/good enough to mold.

  3. Terry, you use the AD with the ease!
    The elbow is wide and the cap are wide, that was fashion in those days.
    The modern draft has more shape. The distance from e (1.5 cm from E) to E1 is = Distance L-r + 4.5 in the modern draft And e1 = E1.
    Cap height is 1/2 Ah - (1/10 of 1/2 Ah + 1.5 to 2 cm)
    Sleeve width 1/2 Au 1 +1.5 cm
    (If you do the width with 1 cm you do the cap with 1.5 cm)
    D to F is 1/4 Ad-2 cm
    B to D is 1/4 Ad+ 0.5 cm
    You well get an ease about 8 - 10 %
    The front cap gets more rounded the back cap less as in the old sleeve
    The Rundschau sleeve is very adjustable.

  4. Ad with ease- yes I can see that.
    What year is the more modern draft that you have/use?
    As I said earlier, I was using a basic draft that I downloaded from the Tailor and Cutter and it was estimated to be 1950's-60's.