Monday, October 10, 2011

jeans draft front

So I have drafted the fronts of the jeans, as instructed.
Beginning with the crotch or "fork line", at "0".
0-1 is the rise , less the waistband which I decided was 1 and 1/2 inches deep.
the instructions progress logically until you get to
"draw the fly seam"
Looking at the illustration of the draft makes this instruction confusing.
So I left it for a moment and went to the next few instructions
0-8 to find the hip point
9 from 7 to get the waist point
11 is 1 inch above the fork line and 1/2 inch from the fly seam grow on fly at point 10-11.

Ok so this is irritating.
There is 1/2 inch seam allowance allowed, so you can see the dotted line inside the lower area of the fly line that is drawn from 6 indicating the seam allowance. At 11 it turns abruptly into the solid line from 11 to 10.
10 is 1/2 inch in from 7 so one assumes that is seam allowance.
Then you see the fly line from 6 running into a point above 11 in a small dotted line, that seems to run into the line 10- 11 as well.
It makes it very confusing to determine where the centre front line is if you didn't want a grow on fly.
The abrupt angle formed at 11 isn't pleasing to me either.

I am very opinionated about drafts and I think they should be clear.
This one doesn't get any marks for clarity.

What else can I say at this point? I think that there will need to be some truing up of angles at some point, but I will draft the back next ( I think there is something odd going on there as well), so I'll go onward and try to make sense of it all at the end.


  1. I have done that draft. And I wondered about point 11 too. I thought this peculiarity is the dress part. The finesse "1/2 inch from the fly SEAM" I did not understand. Thanks for pointing out. Now the crotch curve looks much better.
    With the back I had no difficulties, to found point 29 I did a circ.
    For me the (big) s.a. are not good to draft with.

  2. Hi Terri,

    Out of curiosity, did you sew the pocket along with the side seam or did you do a more complicated finish, laying it on top of a busted side seam?


  3. I'm not completely clear what you mean. I didn't make these up in fabric. Typically, jean have the pocket bag caught into the side seam. It is the simplest technique, compared with a traditional men's trouser pocket.