Wednesday, March 16, 2011

another waistcoat

It is getting so busy that I can barely find time to take a few pictures as I work through the fittings and alterations. This is a nineteenth century waistcoat that I fit the other day. I went straight into fabric for this one, hoping the actor was the size his measurement sheet indicated.
Luckily he was and there weren't too many alterations to do to this waistcoat. It is in a very preliminary state, just tailor tacked, no pockets yet, a muslin back and the front edge and hems are just basted back.
It has a shawl collar that ends up with a very narrow stand and fall at the back neck.
I made the corrections and have a nice clean pattern now. I will just take the waistcoat almost apart so I can mark the changes needed and cut all the bits like the pockets and pocket bags, the facing and the linings. This lapel breaks below the seam of the neckline, and when it rolls into position, will cover up the dart that is in the neckline. The facing won't have the neckline seam at all, it will be worked over the lapel in one piece to the inside where it will be caught down to the canvas.
The lining will then be seamed along the front armhole, turned , basted into place and then hand stitched to the facing. This gives you better results in my opinion, as you can be sure that there is enough ease allowed over the roll of the lapel and shawl collar. It is one of those tactile things that I love about tailoring.

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