Tuesday, March 30, 2010

SB suit

This is not a very good photo (ok, its a terrible photo)but I am putting it here to remind myself at least, that I am happiest cutting suits and now that I have (with Lela's help especially) finished with the doublets and trunkhose, I will have nothing but suits to cut for a while.

This suit was made of a very, very lightweight wool-I could see daylight through it. It was skillfully handled by Karen -waistcoat, Denise-trousers and Silvia- jacket.

I opted for an interlining/flatmounting of washed and preshrunk silesia to give more substance to the waistcoat, and I lined the trousers fully both front and back, top to bottom. There is nothing worse than seeing stage light through the unlined back of a pair of trousers with fabric like this.
The jacket had a piece of bias cut silesia interlining in the upper shoulder area to mask the shoulder pad insertion but was otherwise constructed in the usual manner.

I didn't fit a cotton toile of this- I cut right into the fabric, for a skeleton baste up- and this was its one and only fitting after that. Small changes to make- trousers too long for instance but otherwise off it goes in a whirlwind. It would be nice to do this a bit more slowly- but that won't happen anytime soon I guess.

I will revisit this pattern since I will be making more suits for this gentleman this year- another SB, a DB, a military uniform, and a set of tails. Making this many suits for one actor doesn't happen very often but I am looking forward to it.

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