Here is a shot of the undercollar and under the lapel. I was surprised that it was machined through the stand. It has been felled to the coat by hand. The collar end has been clean finished, the collar and lapel were edge-stitched by machine and then the collar was caught to the lapel with a very small cross-stitch. It has a functional buttonhole and loop behind.
This is the back step - you can see the hand stitching that catches the under step area to the coat itself.
The lining is cut in two pieces at the back, which is so much easier to put in. Linings can be without a waist seam here, which is was how I learned to do it, but I have changed to this method as well for the tailor's benefit. Cutting the lining all in one is guaranteed to cause heart palpitations when you make that clip for the first time.
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