Tuesday, August 18, 2009

more detachable collars

Here is an example of the collar pattern made from one of the paper collars
in the last post. With it is a mock-up of a turn down collar and a stand collar.

The turn down collar might be called the "Marley" if I remember correctly.
All the collar styles had style names and they were embossed into the paper or stamped on the inside of the cotton starched collars.

This collar has a deep stand and fall. It also has an extended front on the left side, that tucks under the front portion of the right hand side of the collar when it is done up. The collars and shirt fronts lap left over right for men's wear.
I make the mock-ups out of a specific heavy interfacing, cut raw, with slits as the buttonholes for the collar studs to go through.
They would be tried on with a band collar shirt that has a buttonhole at the centre back of the neckband for the short stud to go through and two buttonholes at the centre front for the longer stud.
The stud goes through the shirt band holes first, then through the holes in the collar, so the front stud needs to be longer to pass through more layers of material. It usually has a pivoting head to help it go through the buttonhole, then you pivot it back to a flat position and voila. You now have a shirt with a collar.


  1. Hello, I would like to make a detachable collar for myself, but I don't have a pattern. Could you help me to find one or tell me how to make my own?
    thanks, Theo.

  2. I just did a search on ebay and found a number of vintage ones that were available. If you have a particular style you like on an existing shirt, you could copy it in order to make your own pattern. Be very careful to notice the grain lines and keep it from distorting.
    I believe you can buy new ones as well, but I cannot recall the website I saw them on right now.........
    you could have a pattern made, but I'm not sure if a professional shirtmaker would accomodate you, but you could post an ad for a patternmaker on Craigslist for instance. You could also contact someone at a local college with a fashion program to find a patternmaker.