Wednesday, December 13, 2017

paned breeches updated and finished

Home again home again jiggity jig.
That month away felt so long, yet went by so quickly if you know what I mean.

It is refreshing to go to Montreal. There were so many wonderful cultural experiences to see and do. Here are some of the things I did while there.
AURA amazingly breathtaking! watch the video!
Leonard Cohen exhibit at MAC , Centaur Theatre,  Boys with Cars , McGill music concert , Redpath Museum , Souk à SAT , Cité Mémoire , Salon des Artisans Récupérateurs, Beautys, wandering the old town of Montreal and Griffintown, watching the Grey Cup with friends down in Lasalle, shopping, restaurants, Loving Vincent and The Other Side of Hope

I did work too. Really! No wonder I am a little tired!

so a few work photo updates
the paned trunk hose.
This is what I did with the tulle/net to create the shape under the "paned" layer. I forgot to take photos of this.

After applying the netting, sew the base layer up. 
I had already created a zip fly in the base layer before I applied the netting, so my fronts were actually joined together as I applied the net. Sew the inseams, then sew the centre front/centre back seam.
Sew the CB seam completely up before applying the waistband. The next steps can be modified, but this is how I did it, as I needed to have a fitting before finishing. I am also trying to think ahead as to how alterations could be easily made after the fitting, or in the future.
I interfaced and applied the base waistband (just a single layer), sewing it on so the seam allowances are facing outwards. This will make sense, I assure you. I turned the top edge of the waistband and pressed it.

Next, sew up the paned layer, inseams first, then cf/cb leaving the fly area open. Sew the waistband(single layer of fabric) on as usual. You now have two pairs of "shorts"
Slide the paned layer over the base layer. Baste the CF fly opening to the base layer.
Finger press the waistline seam allowance open, pushing the seam allowance of the panes downwards and baste the waistband seam allowance of the pane layer to the waistband seam allowance of the base layer. Machine these together close to the seam.
Slip stitch the centre front fly of the paned layer to the base with a permanent stitch. 
Baste the leg openings together flat.

make any alterations- I had to take a few small tucks in the back under the seat towards the inseam. I put the tucks in the base layer and gathered the paned layer to the new size.
Finish them!

I used premade bias tape to finish the leg opening. I sewed it on, cut my seam allowances down, wrapped the bias to the inside as a facing, and slip stitched the bias to the base fabric.
joined the waistband layers together on the top and front edges.
Sew on hooks and bars.

Production photo credit Maxime Cote


  1. Magnificent!...thank you for sharing this with us!

  2. How about a split CB waistband for future alterations?

    1. Well each layer of waistband does have a seam centre back with seam allowance available to let out and there is allowance cb in the body too.
      But they could be constructed differently-

      If you want to approach it like a regular trouser, you would have to flat mount each leg individually at the cf/cb seam but after sewing the side seam, and inseam of each layer.Then put the fly in.
      The seam allowances of al layers at the waist would go up into the waist band, then each half of the waistband gets sewn on, then the crotch seam sewn up.
      You would need to finish the cf/cb seam allowances with serging.
      You could bag out the leg opening too if you went this route. Do it right at the beginning before flatting each layer at the cf/cb.
      It all depends on your fitting process, time available, and generally how you decide in the moment to approach it.

    2. The other considerationwith this method is the fly opening would require a bit more handwork or figuring out as you dont want and fly stitching to go through the top paned layer.
      I also wanted the seam allowances ot the paned layer at the waist to go down wards to provide more "lift" and also to keep the waist less bulky.

      Lots of options!

    3. Please excuse the spelling-early morning hasty typing on device that is too small!