Friday, November 24, 2017

Fast and furious

NTS progress update.
Week two is complete and we have been very busy.
We being myself, expert sewer Lisange and our part time student assistant L. working on the menswear.
Arrived on the Monday, met with our student designer, got organized and started drafting, as I had a day and half before Lisange would arrive to start sewing.

Lets see, I have drafted 3 pairs of period breeches and a pair of short trunk-hose.
Drafted two jerkins, cut them, Lisange sewed them, I fit the mock ups and then altered and cut them in real fabric. One is almost completely sewn.
Cut the breeches straight into fabric, Which I mainly sewed with some help from our student assistant, made them up to fitting stage and fit them. Fit the stock and borrowed costume pieces. Marked those alterations, and Lisange also cut a couple of period shirts and stitched one up.
Our head of wardrobe is very hands on and made a dent in some of the stock alterations this week.

So, what can I show you?
The short "trunk-hose"
The designer just could not find a pair of these in stock, nor to rent or borrow. We needed a time and material saving approach to these. The "panes are created by box pleating the fabric, and instead of trim, I zigged in gold thread to give the impression of trimmed panes. There are 10 "panes" and if we had used trim to define them, we would have needed 15-18 metres of trim. That is quite costly for a student show budget.

Of course, this is just the top layer. The industrial zig machine and I had a few moments of irritation, but with a bit of perseverance, I got the edges done, pleated up and pinned in place. I think this will give the impression we are after.

There is a fitted base layer that I made first. The base layer will get a ruffle or two of tulle to help hold this "paned" layer out. The waist and bottom edge of the paned layer will get gathered in and the pleats will give the volume required. At least I hope that's how it will work!
We will see how it goes on Monday!
Bonne soirée, et bon fin de semaine.


  1. That is a pretty cool way to do faux panes! Will there be any fabric poufs inserted into the box-pleats (exposed between the "panes"? Would love to see how these end up looking on the body!

    1. The fabric between the panes is just the inside of the box pleats.
      I have put a ruffle of netting on the base layer, and the paned layer goes over that, opening up the box pleated panes.

    2. Aha. Thanks for explaining. They turned out looking great and super poufy!!

  2. Delighted to find a new post. You always share so much very useful information.

  3. Pleated panes! What a GREAT idea! I've never seen that before - I'll have to keep that one in mind; so fast and economical when the situation calls for it!

  4. This is terrific. I was interested to see that the trim didn't fall at right angles to the waist edge, but I assume it's on grain? I too struggle with the expense of trim -- sometimes I've made crochet edging that I sprayed metallic

    1. "Panes" are on straight grain. Waist line level rises towards the back.
      I think of it as a puffy sleeve for the leg. :)