Thursday, January 6, 2011

1914 sack coat


For those out there who enjoy period drafts, I'm posting a draft from The Sartorial Art Journal of August 1914 which ties in a bit to the Extreme Style postings.
I don't think this draft would give as extreme a shape as depicted in those pictures, but I haven't tried it out. If you do try it let me know.
I hope it is legible- I'd like to set up a proper photo taking method for these old journals- I don't want to try to flatten them into a photocopier or scanner because some are fragile.
There's another project for the New Year.

2 comments:

  1. Happy New Year, Terri!
    I, for one, loved your neck point expose, and will avidly follow any jacket construction details you care to share with us. The extreme style suits made me think of the American football player's physique - and I can definitely see 20 year old boys buying them, to exaggerate their newly acquired manliness.

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  2. " which ties in a bit to the Extreme Style postings.
    I don't think this draft would give as extreme a shape as depicted in those pictures, but I haven't tried it out. If you do try it let me know."

    I've turned this question over in my mind for a few days. I've not got the opportunity to draft something out (project list too long at the moment) so I limited my speculation to standing in front of the mirror wearing several of my Croonborg drafted sacks trying to guess what would need to be diferent to achieve the look of the extreme 1914 coats.

    Here's my hypothesis: the upper body parts could be lifted from this regulation draft without any great change. It's the skirts that are the big question. Looking at the fashion plate the fronts seem to be cut in a delibertaley sloped, pointed (or 'unbalanced' front long) angle and there appears to be some skirt flare at the sides, no doubt to accomadate the billowing golf trousers. I suspect that when lengthening the hem to 'finger-tip' length the skirt was kicked-out much more than in the above diagram and that these two departures from the norm would be required for the 1914 extreme golf-suit numbers.

    That and those outrageous pocket flaps. ;-)


    I.B.

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