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Paper: brown or white kraft paper about 2.5- 3m in length
Pencils: mechanical or regular (nice and sharp)
Eraser
Yardstick or metre stick
Tailor's square (also known as designer L square) they come in imperial and metric
if you don't have one, you will need a calculator and either a t-square or something that you can draw a right angle with
C-Thru quilters ruler is useful
I personally don't use the curved rulers I am going to list below.
I freehand the curves by eye with a piece of graphite chalk which seems to be unavailable nowadays, so you will either have to use the rulers or freehand draw with a pencil, which isn't easy. You can view the rulers here. Fairgate seems to make the most popular ones so you can search for Fairgate pattern drafting rulers for a selection of websites. Ace is just the one that I randomly chose.
Hip curve ruler/ also known as a vary form ruler (F12-124)
French curve/vary form ruler (F12-112R)
Paper scissors
Needle point tracing wheel
Measuring tape
Magic tape
I think that's it........
Last but not least, a trouser draft.
I decided on this one. It is mid 20th century, flat fronted, high waisted, with grown-on waistband, fish tail back, and plain bottoms. It is from The Pocket CPG (Cutter's Practical Guide) by F.R. Morris.
Thanks to the Cutter and Tailor forum for the source material.
I am just going to draft as directed, and this is not a draft I have used before either, so have a look and then we'll get started.
Where does B come in? On the back crotch line, where it intersects with the waistline of the front. No mention of how to plot that point on the drafting instructions, or if it's a point that naturally arises from the drafting of the CB angle, why is it noted as B? Is that something for the tailor to use as a reference, like the D for dress point?
ReplyDeleteBy the way, I used these instructions to draft for a friend with a 1:1 hip-to-waist ratio, fully expecting that the flat front would be problematic, and was very pleased with the result! Only needed a couple of adjustments in the back waist area for his lordosis.
B is just where the centre back line crosses the waistline. Not sure why it is noted in the diagram but not in the draft.
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