Thursday, September 8, 2011

Drafting Tools and trouser draft

The materials and tools you will need to draft a pair of trousers are:
Paper: brown or white kraft paper about 2.5- 3m in length
Pencils: mechanical or regular (nice and sharp)
Yardstick or metre stick

Tailor's square (also known as designer L square) they come in imperial and metric
if you don't have one, you will need a calculator and either a t-square or something that you can draw a right angle with

C-Thru quilters ruler is useful

I personally don't use the curved rulers I am going to list below.
I freehand the curves by eye with a piece of graphite chalk which seems to be unavailable nowadays, so you will either have to use the rulers or freehand draw with a pencil, which isn't easy. You can view the rulers here. Fairgate seems to make the most popular ones so you can search for Fairgate pattern drafting rulers for a selection of websites. Ace is just the one that I randomly chose.
Hip curve ruler/ also known as a vary form ruler (F12-124)
French curve/vary form ruler (F12-112R)

Paper scissors
Needle point tracing wheel
Measuring tape
Magic tape
I think that's it........

Last but not least, a trouser draft.
I decided on this one. It is mid 20th century, flat fronted, high waisted, with grown-on waistband, fish tail back, and plain bottoms. It is from The Pocket CPG (Cutter's Practical Guide) by F.R. Morris.
Thanks to the Cutter and Tailor forum for the source material.
I am just going to draft as directed, and this is not a draft I have used before either, so have a look and then we'll get started.

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