Ok, Sorry for the delay, but one of my job prospects has come through and I had to stop everything and make a toile for a fitting on Tuesday.

So when you are drafting, the paper is on the table in front of you and the tops of the trousers will be to your left and the hems will be to your right.

I am going to follow the instructions and rewrite them to suit my explanations.

One more bit of

*terminology:***Square a line, square out**: this means to draw a perpendicular line to another line at a specific point on the draft. Be accurate, a 90 degree angle is required.

First step.

The first instruction is

*1 from 0*equals the body rise, 13 inches. Stop.Obviously you have to have a line to start from, not just an arbitrary point hovering in space. Point 0 is on the crotch line, so your first step is to draw a line that will be the crotch line. This line is perpendicular to the table edge.

Now pick a point on the line to be point

**0**. Label it.Now square a line perpendicular to the first line, from point

**o**extending the new line to your left.Measure up from point

**0**, the rise, 13 inches, and mark point**1**. This is the top of the waistband.Measure down

*2 inches*from**1**to find point**2**. This is your waistline.Measure up from point

**0**,*1/6 scale*to find point**3**. This is your hip or seat line level.Measure up from point

**0**,*5 1/4"*to find**A**. That is a guide point for drawing the centre front curve.Stop.

Now, you will need to

*square out*from point**1**, point**2**, and point**3**. You should do that now.Next step.

measure from

**0**along crotch line,*1/6 scale*to find point**4**. This is the mid point of the leg.measure from

**0**, along crotch line,*1/4 total hip measurement*to find point**5**.measure from

**3**along the hip line,*1/4 total hip meaurement minus 1/4"*to find point**6**.measure from

**2**on the waist line,*1/4 of the total waist plus 1/2"*to find point**7**.measure from point

**1**along the top line,*the distance 2-7 plus 1/4"*to find point**8**.measure from point

**0**along the crotch line (towards yourself)*1/6 scale*to find point**9**.Stop.

You will need to

*square a line down*from point**4**.Measure from point

**4**, along this new line, the inseam plus a seam. (a seam allowance here is 1/4inch),*so 31 1/4 inches total*, to find point**10**. This is the hem line.Find the halfway point on line

**4-10**and make a mark, then*measure up 2 inches*to find point**11**. This is the knee line.Just to clarify, the measurement from

**4 to 11**will be*2 inches less*than the measurement from**11 to 10**.Stop and

*square out*in both directions from point**10**to make your hemline and from point**11**at the knee line.At the hem line, measure

*1/4 of the bottom*(hem width) from point**10**in both directions to find points**12**and**13**.At the knee line, measure out

*1/4 of the knee measurement*from point**11**in both directions to locate points**14**and**15**.Measure up from point

**10**,*3/4 inch*and mark point**Ax**.Measure from

**9**on the crotch line*1/2 inch*to locate point**D**for the dress.Okay, now you are going to join the points to make the pattern.

I think in this case, you could join the points with a ruler for guidelines. Do this lightly in pencil.

You can then draw in your pattern lines with this thought in mind:

Generally speaking, there are very few areas of a draft

*of any kind*that have straight lines. so my advice over and over will be to draw nice lines. Even if you are using curved rulers, it is a good exercise to draw your lines by eye and train the eye hand connection.Draw beautiful lines. period.

I'll continue tomorrow with drawing in the lines and working toward the back

hi Terri..

ReplyDeleteto find point D, do you mark 1/2 inch from point 9 towards the he mid point of the leg or in other direction.. ?!

Dario from Croatia

Towards the mid point, i believe you can see it in the drafting diagram in the earlier post that contains the terminology and the draft.

ReplyDeletethank you.. I was following your draft.. didn't zoom on Morris draft.. sorry ;-)

Deletedario