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This is what I have drawn. The side seam from the hip to the waist needs to be a gentle covex curve, and in drawing it, hitting point 6 didn't seem to make a good line, so my line is outside point 6 by almost 1/4". It looks right to my eye.
I drew the centre front curve in a couple of times and erased it, must have been nervous!
I tried to use a curved ruler to draw it but the shape didn't seem right to me, so I did it again.
I realize that there is no guide line in the draft for developing that curve, so I bisected the angle at 0 and measured it at 1 5/8 inches, if that helps you. Now that I am thinking about it, there is 1/4 inch seam allowance on the centre front, and I normally draft my own patterns nett, so have I scooped a tidge too much out? Hmmm.
It's probably ok, but the fact is, you have to try it in fabric to make a full decision. I wouldn't go any closer than what I have drawn, but if your line is at 1 3/4 inches that's ok too.
For the outseam, your line should be a nice convex shape over the hip, hollow very slightly inward(concave from crotch line to knee, and than continue more or less straigh to the hem.
The inseam should curve inwards from 9 as you drawn the line towards the knee, joining into a straight line drawn from the dress point to the knee, then continuing straight on to the hem.
The front hem in the diagram is a convex curve, whereas I always have drawn a concave line from 12, hollowing up to Ax, and curving back down to 13.
Once you are happy with the shapes, cut out the front pattern , cutting away your pencil lines.
Lay the cut out fronts on another piece of paper, and carefully trace around the fronts. Use your needle punch tracing wheel if you can and mark though the horizontal and vertical construction lines as well. If you can't use the tracing wheel, punch a small hole at the important points on the pattern in order to transfer them
Remove the front pattern, and remark all lines so you can work from them in preparation to draft the undersides (backs).
Hi ! I am Jasper and I am a Bespoke Tailoring student from London College of Fashion in London. I am right now student in year 1 and learning the men's Trouser making. I enjoy your blog so much! and it is very helpful. I found that the method you used to draft pattern is very different from what I have learned, so I would like to try making trousers using your method as my self studying. Could you tell me the how to seam allowances for your method please? that would be even more helpful, Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHi Jasper, the method I am demonstrating here is an example from a published draft many years old. This is not my personal draft, I do not use this draft when I make trousers. I have posted this only to demonstrate how to follow the instructions that accompany this particular drafting method.
ReplyDeleteWhat method or draft have you learned and how is it different?
Well, What i have learned is called basic centre line system.I try this method on myself but it did not fit me well at all. That why I am looking for other methods. With this method, there are no seam allowance on the front piece at outer or inter side seams. 4cm seam allowance on the back piece at side seams. 6cm at bottom to make the bottom heavier to droop naturally.
DeletePerhaps you would like to try the German Rundschau method? I do not use it as I have my own method which works well, but it is useful to try other methods and compare results. If you try the Cutter and Tailor forum, I believe there is an older Rundshau draft available for people to use, and there amy even be a translation available from German to English.
DeleteUnderstanding the mechanics of why a draft works or doesn't is not always straightforward, and remember that all draft just give a basic outline for a proportionate figure. Every draft conveys its own style as well, so you must be aware of this if you are using a draft from 1930 to make skinny leg modern trousers, you will be disappointed.
All draft require analysis of the figure before drafting so that modifications can be made prior to cutting out. All methods then require fitting. There is no such thing as a perfect pair just from following some instructions, until you can "see" how the draft works.
I hope this helps.
It does help a lot ! Yes you are right. My tutor keeps telling me that I am not making a jeans but a gentleman trousers, so the point is not to fit like a jeans,but to re- shape the legs and allow more movements. Thank you very much! I am still new to these and hope I can become as good as you are.
DeleteThis is as it calls an "English Trouser", it should not fit close to the body; it is high waisted and usually with the waistband cut-on. Actually it makes a beautiful trouser for and evening set, with a jacket and a waistcoat. Not everybody is use to wear gigh rise trousers nowadays, which it is especially better for a full figure rather than the low rise fitting kind of pants that big guys (or full figure, whatever you like to call them) try to get into it in today's times. Today, in the UK and Europe is getting more into fashion with suspenders.
ReplyDeleteJuan
are you a member of the Bespoke Cutter and Tailor forum? You may enjoy the information and discussions
ReplyDeletehttp://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php
Hi Terri, I am recently stumped on an old drafting page. I tried to follow the instruction when I read through. However, I didn’t find any information regarding whether there is a seam allowance already or not. Should I add them later on or there is might be some hidden infor which I failed to notice? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteMost of the old drafts do have seam allowances, but you do need to figure it out by reading any provided information included in the book or draft, as it is assumed the person using the drafts has been trained by a master tailor. I would say 1/4 inch SA is standard in the old drafts. But occasionally some areas are net. You need to be a sleuth. Terri
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