Monday, September 12, 2011

drafting trouser front continued

This is what I have drawn. The side seam from the hip to the waist needs to be a gentle covex curve, and in drawing it, hitting point 6 didn't seem to make a good line, so my line is outside point 6 by almost 1/4". It looks right to my eye.
I drew the centre front curve in a couple of times and erased it, must have been nervous!
I tried to use a curved ruler to draw it but the shape didn't seem right to me, so I did it again.
I realize that there is no guide line in the draft for developing that curve, so I bisected the angle at 0 and measured it at 1 5/8 inches, if that helps you. Now that I am thinking about it, there is 1/4 inch seam allowance on the centre front, and I normally draft my own patterns nett, so have I scooped a tidge too much out? Hmmm.
It's probably ok, but the fact is, you have to try it in fabric to make a full decision. I wouldn't go any closer than what I have drawn, but if your line is at 1 3/4 inches that's ok too.



For the outseam, your line should be a nice convex shape over the hip, hollow very slightly inward(concave from crotch line to knee, and than continue more or less straigh to the hem.
The inseam should curve inwards from 9 as you drawn the line towards the knee, joining into a straight line drawn from the dress point to the knee, then continuing straight on to the hem.

The front hem in the diagram is a convex curve, whereas I always have drawn a concave line from 12, hollowing up to Ax, and curving back down to 13.

Once you are happy with the shapes, cut out the front pattern , cutting away your pencil lines.

Lay the cut out fronts on another piece of paper, and carefully trace around the fronts. Use your needle punch tracing wheel if you can and mark though the horizontal and vertical construction lines as well. If you can't use the tracing wheel, punch a small hole at the important points on the pattern in order to transfer them

Remove the front pattern, and remark all lines so you can work from them in preparation to draft the undersides (backs).

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