Friday, April 30, 2010

waistcoat with collar details

Another waistcoat- this one a little different from the Tattersall. This one has four welt pockets with the typical 1920's curved profiles. It also has a "grown-on" collar. This means that the collar is part of the front of the waistcoat- it is not "seamed- on". A seamed on or "laid-on collar is made up separately and "laid on" top of the fronts where it is caught down when sewing the facings on.
This collar is more reminiscent of a jacket's lapels in that it is part of the front that turns back like a lapel does. The hymo in the waistcoat front is padstitched lightly in the collar area and it turns back gently at the first button. It gets caught in the shoulder seam and has a back neck extension as well. This waistcoat was a bit more time consuming than a plain two pocket modern style, but I like to give characters little details like this.
This is part of a three piece suit that I cut this season, the jacket was detailed here in pattern matching.

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