Saturday, April 3, 2010

linen suit

I haven't cut any linen suits for a few years, so it is nice to do one. This one is a three piece SB suit in early 1930's style. Above you can see the waistcoat getting a final baste at the back neck in preparation for its next fitting. Below you can see the jacket just before the sleeves and collar get basted on for the fitting.
I did a mock-up or toile earlier for this suit, so for the next fitting we usually baste the sleeves in, but leave the hems basted. We have our pockets in, or on, in this case, and we will baste the undercollar on but leave the top collar until after the fitting. The body hem is also left basted, but the silesia for support is already in place. The linings are left basted as well- in case of alterations being required, but also so we can move on to getting another jacket ready. The actor can wear the jacket with basted linings once or twice, and slip stitching the lining is a nice job to do when the the pressure is off- or it can always be handed off to someone else in need of work. Generally speaking though, for the tailor, it is nice to do that last bit of finishing yourself- it makes the job feel complete.

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