Friday, October 7, 2011

reading the draft

Well, the first thing to notice on the first page of the draft is the rise, and the difference between the waist and hip measurement.

First, the rise.
Obviously in comparison to the last draft I talked about, the rise on the jeans pattern is much shorter. The rise on the trousers was 13 inches and the jeans rise is 10 1/2 inches.
Jeans generally sit below the natural waist. How much below is a style decision.
That makes sense.

The next thing that caught my eye was the difference between the waist measurement of 32 inches and the hip at 40 inches.
This seems odd. That is an 8 inch difference. That is about the standard difference for women.

The last pair we looked at had a difference of 6 inches, and since jeans sit lower than the natural waist, where the body is generally bigger, I would have expected a smaller difference not a greater one.

Which begs the question: What is a standard difference?
The number we have for this draft in metric are: waist 81.28cm and hip 101.6cm (20cm difference)

I checked in Metric pattern cutting for menswear which is close to the era we are dealing with.

The chart for regular mature figures:
natural waist of 82 cm, hip 100cm, (18cm difference)
trouser waist (4cm below natural waist) 85 cm

For Athletic figures:
natural waist 83cm, hip 102cm, (19cm difference)
trouser waist 86cm (4cm below natural waist)

So, what to think? It could be based on a real measurement rather than a standard. It indicates to me that there will be some accomodation in the draft for a large seat.

carrying on,
there is a 1/2 inch seam allowance allowed throughout the draft.
That is a change from the previous standard of 1/4 inch. Keep that in mind.

Next step is to start drafting.

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