Thursday, October 13, 2011

jeans draft back

So I finished the draft of the jeans back.
On the second page the instructions continue for the front and then into the instructions for the back before you get to the section headed "underside".
Why did they do that?
Hard to know, so the instructions 17 from 4... and 18 from 4... and locate 19 should really be in the underside section. Never mind.
One thing I thought odd was to use 1/4 waist size to locate point 18. Can't say I've seen that before and they don't explain it so carry on anyway and find 19 in order to develop your seat angle.

I think the rest of the instructions are OK to follow and this is what I ended up with.
So what is strange?
No dart. Not even an indication of a dart and with an 8 inch waist to hip difference I expected something.
The other thing I find odd is the look of the height and angle of point 21. It looks short and trucated and the angle where it intersects the waistline is not at 90 degrees. More about this in a minute.

I measured the pattern at the hip level, using a line 1/6 scale up from the crotch or fork line on the fronts and across the hip on the back(dash line) and measured the pattern at 19 7/8 inch, which is slightly less that the actual hip measurement, so no ease.
In the description it says "the main thing to be considered in the preparation of the draft of jean is to cut to fit the figure closely at hips seat and upper legs without being uncomfortable."
I guess that means no ease.

I measured the waist and came to 16 1/2 inches on the half which gives a waist of 33 inches. The back waist is 8 1/2 inches and perhaps that half inch is to be eased into the waist band to act as the missing dart. Maybe you should fold out the 1/2 inch to shape the yoke? Well they don't mention doing anything with it at all.

If the waist is eased that will hollow out the back waist line (that is what happens when you ease a line in, it hollows out) so that the intersection of CB and back waist line are closer to a 90 degree angle.

If you don't have a 90 degree angle at the CB your CB seam forms a hollow vee at the waist line.
So what to do? You could raise the back waist so that it intersects the CB run at a 90 degree angle which gives more coverage over the seat when bending (orange line).You could hollow out the waistline a bit as you ease it in and leave the CB run as is. I guess that would depend on fitting it on someone to see if it worked. I would cut on the extra myself, as it is easier to remove fabric you don't want than to wish you had it afterwards.

I make the same point regarding the CF which also should meet the waist line at a 90 degree angle otherwise the waistline vees there too.

Lastly I cut out the fronts and marked the seam allowances and laid the inseams together to see the seam run. (Looks ok if you can decide what line they mean for you to use as CF)

I also line up the side seams which again, don't run smoothly into each other which begs the question of how to handle that when sewing and if you follow the given line, will it sit nicely on the body, or should those seams also be trued up so they run together more harmoniously?

So, interesting. Can you tell where all the shaping needed for an eight inch waist to hip difference has gone?
A little in the CF, a lot in the side seams, if you put the pattern together at the hip area you can see the large dart takeout, the rest in the CB which isn't really as much as I imagined for a pair of jeans. I'm not sure how I feel about this- I'd likely shift things around a bit.

I would have expected a CB line a bit more angled in a pair of jeans, it puts the CB more on the bias and allows the bias to mould around the seat a bit. They also don't mention the size of the thigh which is a measurement that is useful in closely fitted jeans. The thigh size and the CB line angle and length are all related, and affect one another.

I think that if I was going to try these out, I'd cut a toile in denim and leave ample inlays or seam allowances in the areas of concern.

I'm off to do my fittings tomorrow, so I may not surface for a few days. I'd love to read your thoughts on this draft, especially if you have tried it out.


  1. Hi Terri,
    I did that draft, too. I do not have as much waist as you (8,3 " in back and 7,4 in front). I think the mistake is in the point 11 and the grown on fly and the real CF seam.
    The angle is poor in my opinion too and I too have no where seen how they derive the seat angle - interesting.
    Maybe to get length over the buttocks they have the rounded back waist?

  2. I measured the front waist from the line 10-11, which is how I got 8 inches there.
    Too bad I don't know any man with those measurements to try them on someone!
    Must leave for fittings,
    later, T

  3. That draft looks terrible, why isn't there a dart...i know it may be frowned upon to use a more 'modern' drafting book but from my experience winifred aldrich's metric pattern cutting is good.

  4. I'm going to comment on that soon, but have to get other work done first.
    Did you draft it up?

  5. Argh, I guess blogger ate my comment. I'll try again as anonymous.

    But I have drafted and made these, and long-story-short:

    1. They were very tight at lower front crotch and across front thighs.

    2. they needed renovation in the form of darts at upper back.

    The back crotch curve was surprisingly right on. I don't know how I goofed it, but between the top of the draft back and the appropriate size waistband there was 1.5" in the back. Drafting error? Perhaps--I'm inexperienced! There's only the one way to learn, I suppose, but I'm happy to hear that others have had problems or misgivings about the front crotch/center front.


  6. So, Scooter, what were the measurements that you used? Same as the draft or different. Just curious about tehe inch and a half excess in the back waist.