making coat cuffs

Here are the coat cuffs in progress. In the first photo you can see the inside structure. The cuffs have been sewn together along the front seam after the structural portion has been flat mounted to the plain silk.

The next photo shows the beaded silk inset basted in place. I decided to not put a seam in the beaded fabric, even though there is one underneath. The shaping at that point is quite minimal, and it looks better without a seam.

The next step was to machine the edge of the beaded fabric through the structural layers, then lay on the first trim, pinning in ease as needed then stitching it through all the layers.

I missed getting photos of the lining being attached, but the next step was to sew the lining seam, then bag out the cuff with the lining, turn it to the inside and baste it in place.

The narrow trim then went on by hand I believe, and then the cuff will be seamed onto the sleeve.

Almost ready.

This is the only pair of cuffs that I am making in this manner. The other coats are getting a more "theatrical" finish where the cuff is closed all around and then applied to a finished hemmed sleeve. Those are easier to alter as the cuff can come off easily, the sleeve length changed and the cuff is then slipped stitched back on.

The sleeves and cuff treatment above is more true to the period in that where the cuff folds is the hem length of the sleeve. the back of the cuff is open and you will be able to see the inside lining of the cuff. Still alterable but a bit more work would be required.