Sunday, September 26, 2010

trying out a suit draft

After I had my fitting on Friday,I had a couple of hours free, and I thought that would give me an opportunity to try out the Rundshau Draft that I downloaded from The Cutter and Tailor. It is a "modern" drafting system -mid 20th century I guess - and I always like to see whether drafts work as written, and whether I can make any use of them.
I decided to just use a stand to measure and draft for, so I got our my measuring tape, measured the stand and I started.
Well, the first thing is that I don't speak or read German, and neither Susy or Silvia were around to help me translate. I just had the draft and a rough translation that someone posted. I'm not the most patient or dedicated follower of instructions, but I was determined to make the effort, but to quote my husband, "Those Germans have a different word for everything". Long, long words, and although I had to keep referring back and forth to various pages, I did construct a basic suit jacket pattern.

There were a few things I felt were a bit off.

The measurements I was working with were chest 100 cm, waist 86 cm and hip 100 cm.
Following the written instructions didn't produce the same visual pattern as the one they had. So when things didn't look right, I just made decisions that looked better to me than the ones that the draft provided.
I was stymied so I started by looking at the measurements for the sample draft. Chest 96, waist 88, hip 104.
There was 8cm difference between chest to waist which is very little.
The waist to hip difference was 16 cm, which is more usual, but the hips were 8cm bigger than the chest, which I thought was not usual. There was no mention of whether the measurements were standard sizing or not- not that I could have determined that, since, as I said, I don't read German.
So, I'll try cutting it out in muslin and pinning it on the stand to see what it looks like.


  1. Hey I'm from Germany, so if you ever need help with terms and those long long German words ;) I'll be happy to help.
    I don't know from when your instructions are, but Müller&Sohn (the system in Rundschau) seem to change the standard measurements a bit over the years. At least they did it with the women. I've got a copy of the men's pattern drafting book and there the measurements of the standard jackets are chest 100cm, waist 90cm and hip 102cm. I don't know if this would work better then. Also sometimes the draftings look odd when not made with the given standard measurements. Besides often in the Rundschau magazines they show special draftings for different figure types, styles etc.

  2. Along my course to become a tailor I was educated in de the Rundschau way of pattern construction.
    Although I am Dutch, I can read German and English. Maybe I can help you out with the Rundschau patterns. PM at monkeytail at gmail dot com

  3. Rundschau-I even got that spelling wrong!
    It's a good thing you cannot hear my poor attempts at pronunciation!

    Those standard measurements look much better than the ones in the sample draft.
    I am going to go back to it and see if I've missed anything and perhaps the process will improve with practice.

    Thanks for the offer of help- I may need it!

  4. Hey Terri,

    Probably a mistake you could have made since it's not written in every Rundschau pattern because it's "common knowledge" :
    If the waist measure is small, your waist point on the CF line lies behind the chest point. In that case, you just square downwards from the chest and don't take the waist point into accout. That prohibits your neckpoint from moving too much towards the front.

    Just saying that since I'm getting into german patterning systems myself right now.

    Greetings from Cologne
    David (one of the other TTs from Cutter&Tailor)

  5. Yes, I did just square down from the chest in the end.
    There always seem to common knowledge issues in drafting- its just a matter of figuring them out.

    Part of the difficulty in following a new draft is that I set up my own drafts in a certain order and this one jumps around a bit too much for me.
    I'm also going to rewrite the instructions as the translation is visually difficult to follow.

  6. Hi Terri, Sorry to contact you this way but I am having problems with C&T website, have you had any issues connecting to the forum?

    Best wishes,
    Tom Bennett

    1. yes tom, me too. cannot seem to find Sator. i have very few personal email connections there but all are having the same problem

  7. Um, at least it is not at my end. The forum is hosted by GoDaddy. I might drop them a line, they won't give me details but they might look into it. Doesn't SG administer the site too?

    1. Yes, and I tried to pm both on styleforum. No response so far.
      Let me know if you find an answer. If you send me a comment with a contact email, i will not publish it and i'll be able to contact you directly.