Sunday, May 30, 2010

linen trousers

Just a quick photo of a pair of linen trousers that we put together last week. I wish I had grabbed the picture with the suspenders and the shoes on because they hang much nicer with suspenders and with the shoes you can see the hem properly.
Anyway, you'll have to take my word for it that the fronts don't really break like that on the foot.
What I really liked about them was the fit over the seat and up into the small of the back. These are cut to sit at the natural waist- about belly button level.They have double outward pleats, the main pleat being developed from the hem to the waist, a separate front waistband, a grown on back waistband with fish tail backs and plain side seam pockets.

I have been looking at the pros and cons of my standby trouser draft and I've been experimenting a bit here by incorporating aspects of a 1930's draft that I had a reference for. It is really important for me to have a draft that produces something that I know will fit since we are often so pushed for time. If I know the basic shape works, I can then concentrate more on the details that make it look more "period".
I've been happy with the way it has fit a number of different people, so I am going back to my notes and drawing up a 1/4 scale draft with instructions, and when I resume teaching I'll be trying it out some more on our fit models.

These needed to be fully lined in the front and back to support the fabric. This is a nice weight of linen, quite crisp when pressed, but like all linens, just softens and creases at the mere thought of body heat.
I'll get them back and take a photo of the inside of them to show you how we have put the linings in.

1 comment:

  1. looking forward. Have here some nice linnen too.