Sunday, March 26, 2017

fitting and pattern alterations part 2

I thought I would follow up a little on the fitting and pattern alteration post where I was dealing with pattern alterations for scoliosis.

I had to make three different garments for this particular person, all with different patterning requirements.
We made a suit, a bolero and a 1950's style casual jacket. (with a quick change (11 seconds) front panel held on with magnets but that is a whole other bit of business)

With the bolero, I have created a seamed panelled back as it gave me more control over the fit. This garment does not have shoulder padding, whereas the suit jacket does.

I have laid the left body pieces over the right sides to show the differences in the two sides of the body.
I did end up lowering the armhole on the left side of the body as compared to the right.
I think you can see how much lower the left is at the shoulder, as well as the difference in width that was required on his right side at the upper blade area.

I have found this to be both a challenge and an interesting learning process.
Tomorrow I will try to lay out the pieces for the 1950's casual jacket which has a yoke as well as panel seams.

In terms of the suit jacket back, here it is in a finished state.
I think the comment about adding a dart on the left shoulder to make it visually more symmetrical was spot on but I left it as is because I had no time to re cut and reconfigure. If I had time to do it over, I would have tried to transfer some of the left horizontal drop into a shoulder dart rather than take it up with a shoulder pad.
Of course this stand does not reflect his actual shape so there is an air space on the right blade.

One of the job challenges is letting some things go, because we have such time pressures.
He was very happy with all the pieces we made, the designer is happy, I have learned something so I am happy too.

No time in the fittings to take really good shots for a blog, I make do with photos taken for the designer's references. :)


  1. Terri, I'm curious about something....since this particular suit is now basically a bespoke garment (given his unique shape) will the theater offer to sell it to the performer at a reduced cost after the show has closed? I've made SO many garments that can never be worn by anyone else, but who they were cut for, that it seems almost criminal that they end up hanging in storage to waste away on a hanger! I've worked in several houses that will gladly do this, and several who state they can't sell it because it's a capital investment. Do you run across this situation as much as I have?...Final product is gorgeous by the way!

    1. Well, i am not sure. He may not want it either after wearing it for a hundred plus shows and all that sweating and cleaning!
      I think that sometimes they will sell something to a performer if it is not likely to be used again, but That is up to management I guess!

  2. I see you cut the left back pattern side seam to CB very low under the neck hole. And you ended up with different CB seams.
    Helped this with the fit?