Sunday, February 7, 2010

Sleeve experiments

This year I will get to experiment with some odd sleeve shapes.
Asymmetrical outfits and sleeves with darting of the sleeve head in order to create angular shapes. The fashion fabrics for this are varied-some heavy (15 oz wool) and some tissue thin. It will be a challenge, no doubt.
I start with a basic one piece sleeve block that I can develop the other shapes from. In some cases I will need a two piece sleeve pattern for an inner sleeve, plus patterns generated for cuffs/fore arm pieces, a one piece pattern for the upper arm as well as patterns for panes.
I start out expanding my pattern by slashing and spreading for the volume I think a sleeve will need but it usually takes a trial in muslin to really see the relationship between the paper and the resulting muslin toile.
I also have to figure out how to support the shape- whether the fabric needs backing or some kind of netting on an under sleeve or both. The sleeve in the upper photo is backed onto a Nylon fabric that was used for shirt collars at one time. It also has a hoop of rigilene stitched in to keep the circumference held out. The sleeve in the lower photo is washed muslin stitch fused with stitch witchery to craft felt, also with a rigilene support.

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