costuming, tailoring and pattern making for the theatre with an emphasis on menswear
Friday, March 27, 2009
gold doublet questions
Yet another doublet. This one has a waist seam with separate skirts, and paned upper sleeves.
It will also have "slashes" in the front where I have pinned some muslin scraps. He will also get a big lace collar and fancy cuffs too.
There are many decisions to be made to get from this stage to finished, both design and technical. Let's see:
How will it close?
It could close centre front to centre front with hooks and loops and the buttons could be decorative. OR
It could have functional buttons and holes, but that may depend on what is chosen to trim the front and the skirts of the doublet, and whether there is a quick change.
What lining is to be used on the skirts, under the epaulettes/crescents and behind the panes?
What fabric will show in the front slashes?
What fabric is showing under the paned sleeve?
Are the edges of the panes bound and then trimmed- what is the binding, and the trim?
Are the skirt edges bound and trimmed or will they have flat trim as a banding detail?
What fabric shows under the arm if the actor isn't wearing a full shirt? How will that gusset be stitched in?
How will the lace collar and cuffs attach to the doublet - will they be removable for cleaning?
How will the sleeves close?
How will we finish the waistline of the body and how will we sew the skirts to the body?
These are just the immediate questions that come to mind. I'm sure there will be even more decisions to be made. Decisions for breeches, capes, dresses, boots, hats, wigs, jewellery, swords, firearms, helmets, armour, and quick changes. Multiply by the number of costumes in a show and it will make your head spin.
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